Theroux's Trek

Joan and I are planning to go to Africa. I’m interested in seeing wide open spaces filled with wild animals, the safari scenes from Out of Africa being my ideal.

As I like to travel twice, the first time being research and getting to know a place, I set out to find what was not included on the travel safari websites. Looking for some behind the scenes views, the ones my isolationist tour group would be leaving off our itinerary, I wanted at least a little flavor of what I would miss.

I bit down on a full-flavored taste in Paul Theroux’s Dark Star Safari, his walkabout off the grid between Cairo and Cape Town.

Egypt has never been on my must see list. Theroux confirmed my hesitation. Though the Nile sounds beguiling, a populated desert leaves little to be desired. Sand in my shoes at the beach is unpleasant, but sand covering my body every time I go out for a cup of coffee would turn me into a recluse. And I don’t think Cairo has Fresh Direct.

Though the trek was harrowing, he seemed primarily happy at each leg. It fulfilled his goal of being completely unreachable. I can understand the joy of that. Saying, “Here’s my itinerary, call me only in an emergency” allows for some measure of getting away, but having no number at all must be completely liberating.

He meandered south via riverboat, bus, dugout canoe, train, cargo boat, cattle truck and the like. All were far from plush and some were close to life-threatening. He survived them all. Sleeping arrangements included desert planes, tents to protect from prowling hyena, bug infested motels and wooden train benches.

By the time he’d reached South Africa he’d seen very few animals, choosing to by-pass the game reserves in Kenya and tourist-ridden Serengeti. Not wanting to be completely deprived of all that Africa has to offer, he settled into a Game Lodge near Kruger National Park at the tail end of his journey and understood why people pay huge tabs for the pleasure of sitting on a porch in the middle of bush country.

That’s where I want to be, relishing the view of the vast plains after a fulfilling game drive, focusing only on my most basic animal needs – good food and a safe place to sleep and unencumbered by every modern convenience.